Monday, May 31, 2010

Here's the Scoop...

...on my Memorial Day Weekend Project: making artisan blueberry lavender gelato. I don't know what the deal is where you live, but here in SoCal, gelato shops easily outnumber ice cream shops. Gelato was pretty popular about 10 years ago, but it hasn't been trendy for a while. We've long since moved on to cupcakes (Sprinkles) and tart yogurt (Pinkberry). Even though gelato, an Italian ice cream that contains half the butterfat of American ice cream, is yummy, I'm a little surprised that there still are so many gelato stores. Personally, I'd prefer a few more DQs. Our closest DQ is 25 minutes away, and there is nothing like a dipped cone from DQ. At any rate, there is something elegant and refreshing about gelato, and serving a dainty scoop of homemade gelato on a hot Memorial Day weekend sounded like a very urban cowgirlish thing to do.

Friday: Stopped by bookstore to pick up Torrence Kopfer's Making Artisan Gelato, which includes a recipe for blueberry lavender gelato. Picked up ingredients on the way home: whole milk, heavy cream, all-natural blueberry jam, lemon, blueberries, sugar, and eggs. I already had the organic dried lavender buds. Yes, I have no eggs or sugar on hand, but I have plenty of organic dried lavender.

Snap! Upon reading the recipe in its entirety, I learn that this (and all the other recipes) require an ice cream maker. I have no idea why this did not occur to me sooner. What was I thinking--I would just shake the ingredients in a Mason jar and--voila!--icy gelato?

Saturday: Went to Williams Sonoma and purchased a 2-quart ice cream maker. Gave the device a knowing look: although the brand supposedly is top-notch, we received as wedding gifts a fancy toaster, blender, and food processor made by this brand. Each appliance suffered a fatal meltdown well before our first anniversary. I'm onto this ice cream maker. I fully expect it to crash and burn after two uses.

Went home, donned apron, rolled up sleeves, and...learned that I had to freeze the ice cream maker's double-insulated freezer bowl for 24-48 hours. Are you kidding me? Forty-eight hours from now, I might not even feel like making gelato. Ever. Hello, I gotta strike while the iron is hot.

Sunday: Ah, the liquid in the freezer bowl is nice and frozen. Let the artisan gelato-making begin! First, I bring the milk, cream, and lavender buds to a boil, remove from heat, cover, and let steep for 15 minutes. I strain the liquid to remove the lavender buds. I dump the liquid back into the saucepan, add sugar, and stir until the mixture reaches 170 degrees. I also attempt to simultaneously separate and then whisk four egg yolks with sugar.

Oops, I've let the liquid in the saucepan boil and scorch. I dump out the liquid, wash the saucepan, and redo the milk, cream, and lavender steeping step. After 15 minutes, I strain the liquid, add the sugar, and do not stray from the stove until the mixture reaches 170 degrees.

Okay, time to temper the egg yolks (keep them from cooking) by slowly adding about half the liquid to the egg mixture. I pour the yolk-liquid mix into the saucepan, add the jam, and stir until the custard reaches 185 degrees.

Next step--puree the blueberries in food processor. I do have one of those--somewhere. Take short 1/2 hour break to locate said food processor, which still is in box. Puree the blueberries. Clean up blueberry juice that inexplicably is running down the cabinets and also staining the sink. Whisk blueberry puree and lemon juice.

Whew. Am I about done yet? I strain the custard into a clean bowl, stir in the blueberry puree, set the bowl in an ice bath (I am running out of bowls here!) and stir occasionally for 30 minutes. Then--WHAT??--I have to chill the mixture for eight hours or overnight. I mutter a choice unladylike word or two.

Monday: I plug in the new ice cream maker, add the gelato mixture, and let technology do its thing. I notice that the ice cream maker is rather loud. The dogs notice this as well. Dash is barking crazily at the appliance, and Fenway is cowering in the corner behind the couch. "How long does this thing have to run?" the Wrangler shouts over Dash's barking and the propeller plane-like ice cream maker motor, trying to sound only curious and not annoyed. Luckily, only 25 minutes. Which is no time at all, relatively speaking.

Yes, the finished gelato looks great and tastes delicious, blah blah blah. But, while I never say never, it will be a cold day in you-know-what before I do this again.

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